O.M.G
I am shocked at how hard the men here work to get a woman they think has money.
That woman is primarily caucasian. Though, don't forget Stella, she of getting her groove back, was a muntu. Ghana is hook up land. Old and middle aged white women dating guys old enough to be their kids (illustrating not judging). The women are the money, and boy do they keep the dosh coming, and the brothers are their sex toys, lovers, husbands, kings etc etc. Many are the euphemisms for male ho.
Let us call him Exhibit Lucky for being Lucky Dube's number fan. We met at the bar at Big Milly's on Sunday morning. He was with his buddy. I joined in, discovered we share interests and thought I had made friends.
A few weeks later, another friend takes me back to his crib to hang with the gang. Exhibit Lucky was part of the gang. Along with his wife. They married in July, her eyes still had stars and she coudl not believe that she is someone's wife. "That is crazy, right?" was her statement.
I agreed. He does not seem a husband type.
Anyway, way, girls being girls, we started talking, bonding, gossping about how difficult men can be. She, being from the West, added that men here are rather strict with their wives. They want them back in the village doing makoti duties. "So traditional and obsessed with culture," she explained.
My groot bek added: They are just giving you bull.
Guess what? A week later, Exhibit Lucky made a public annoucement of no longer wanting me anywhere near him, his wife and life.
Why?
Coz I saw him with another "Queen", his weekend special.
The rumour mill went into overdrive telling me about how most marriages are just a sham to get a Eurpean or American visa. And how basically, any woman with some money will do. There is even a young guy married to a very wrinkled woman who ought to be going to a nursing home, not on honeymoon.
Niger
On the banks of the river Niger, Bamako. Sigh.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Highlights ..
They include meeting Kristina aka Bingy. She is like so many of my sisters- stylish, fun, sassy, funky, fearless, hot inside out, runs and own a restaurant. She is Ghanaian, been here in Abidjan a year and even thinks in French now.
She had a baby at 14 and asked if she was not freaking out she said nope, she discovered at five months, went to have an abortion but it was too late and there was nothing she could do; let alone freak out coz the baby was on the way. Her folks took it in their stride too, no shouting, fainting, beating, name calling how am going to face my peers now.
Incredible. Very unlike what would be a typical South African parent's response of snot, trane, drama and wondering how to deal with the shame.
I am also meeting a lot of Nigerian guys. Yup, there is naija everywhere. They are something else. Very in your face about what they want, including you and they will try gettingwhat they want, including, by all means neccesary. So anyway, Bingy and I are on the phone when some takes it to chat to me. Says hi, come over to the restaurant I would like to meet you. His name is Kevin and says everyone must be happy to meet him, so it is whatever I want on him, plus the three of us heading back to his studio for some lala, reggae and whisky. When we get there he says, "I hope you people are comfortable"
I love how peopel around here express themselves. Like, Bingy lost her fave ankel bracelet. "And it is paining me," she said, adding, "But the fact is what? The fact is it is lost. I must move on."
They Nigerians and Ghanaians express themselves...the pidgin, pictures and frankness.
I dig it
Love
L
She had a baby at 14 and asked if she was not freaking out she said nope, she discovered at five months, went to have an abortion but it was too late and there was nothing she could do; let alone freak out coz the baby was on the way. Her folks took it in their stride too, no shouting, fainting, beating, name calling how am going to face my peers now.
Incredible. Very unlike what would be a typical South African parent's response of snot, trane, drama and wondering how to deal with the shame.
I am also meeting a lot of Nigerian guys. Yup, there is naija everywhere. They are something else. Very in your face about what they want, including you and they will try gettingwhat they want, including, by all means neccesary. So anyway, Bingy and I are on the phone when some takes it to chat to me. Says hi, come over to the restaurant I would like to meet you. His name is Kevin and says everyone must be happy to meet him, so it is whatever I want on him, plus the three of us heading back to his studio for some lala, reggae and whisky. When we get there he says, "I hope you people are comfortable"
I love how peopel around here express themselves. Like, Bingy lost her fave ankel bracelet. "And it is paining me," she said, adding, "But the fact is what? The fact is it is lost. I must move on."
They Nigerians and Ghanaians express themselves...the pidgin, pictures and frankness.
I dig it
Love
L
Woza January
The new ager in me used facebook status updates to channel the experience. So that I would be bored as ever, stuffed into an office that could barely contain the furniture let alone the four people sharing it.
One of those updates was Lerato is marching around Dogon Country, Mali. There will be no marching but there will be Dogon country, come January.
Africa is romancing me. And I loves it. Come Jan, I will also be jamming ko Sahara at the festival au dessert. 50km after Timbuktu.
One of those updates was Lerato is marching around Dogon Country, Mali. There will be no marching but there will be Dogon country, come January.
Africa is romancing me. And I loves it. Come Jan, I will also be jamming ko Sahara at the festival au dessert. 50km after Timbuktu.
Update
As I head to month six on Dec 23....
My eyes are blinking faster than normal, heart doing the double espresso marathon thing becoz I still cannot believe it. I am here. Someone pinch me. I am in Le riviera, Abidjan and calling this a cyber instead of internet cafe. Breakfast is demi, half, french bread with butter. I used to think they are being rather heavy handed with the butter even after I asked them to go light till I saw that buttering bread here is actually stuffing butter with bread, that is how much they use.
My cafe au lait is not top notch coffee, simple nescafe, au lait part taken care of by condensce milk that they go heavy on... more than half a tea cup of it. The cafe is as make shift as ever. two counters, two benches nailed to the floor. One Suleymana serving with a smile.
It is so strange to think of when I looked at my Lonely Planet maps, planned and chose where to go and wondered if my pronouciation was on point to now living the experience. It is just so strange. I visualized it, prayed tons about it and am now inhailing the heavy traffic fumes that make popping asprin second nature.
I once said via status update...I am in Kokrobite with rasta, music and drums...and I was in Kkbitey with much more than what I knew was waiting.I am at palces that called my name, it is so powerful. I love their brokeness, isolation, the hardness around the edges. More than than the wonderful moments, the magic of their newness, the comfort of their familiriarity...I am here.
My eyes are blinking faster than normal, heart doing the double espresso marathon thing becoz I still cannot believe it. I am here. Someone pinch me. I am in Le riviera, Abidjan and calling this a cyber instead of internet cafe. Breakfast is demi, half, french bread with butter. I used to think they are being rather heavy handed with the butter even after I asked them to go light till I saw that buttering bread here is actually stuffing butter with bread, that is how much they use.
My cafe au lait is not top notch coffee, simple nescafe, au lait part taken care of by condensce milk that they go heavy on... more than half a tea cup of it. The cafe is as make shift as ever. two counters, two benches nailed to the floor. One Suleymana serving with a smile.
It is so strange to think of when I looked at my Lonely Planet maps, planned and chose where to go and wondered if my pronouciation was on point to now living the experience. It is just so strange. I visualized it, prayed tons about it and am now inhailing the heavy traffic fumes that make popping asprin second nature.
I once said via status update...I am in Kokrobite with rasta, music and drums...and I was in Kkbitey with much more than what I knew was waiting.I am at palces that called my name, it is so powerful. I love their brokeness, isolation, the hardness around the edges. More than than the wonderful moments, the magic of their newness, the comfort of their familiriarity...I am here.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
So...
I am having breakfast- atchieke, a piece of fish, sliced chilli, tomatoes and onion, with a sprinkiling of maggi seasoning if you are keen. So I am chowing this in a very make shift shack of a restaurant that has three walls, two tables, four long benches, a potholed floor that is already covered in the fish bones that people spit out as they eat. I am here when the radio plays Brenda Fassie's Vulindela and two people, self included, start singing along.
The song reminded me of my first of many nights at Vieradrome Kafe (a night club). My buddy Kristal plays pool there. They know her, they like her, she even brings hair from Ghana for one of the two pretty hosts in the dimly lit pool room that has red walls and a giant mirror on one side; so you check yourself working your game. And do they ever check themselves out! Ivorian men are obsessed with how they look.
Anyway, I get introduced to the manager/DJ and upon hearing I am South African, heads to the DJ booth to annouce "Vulindlela will be coming up soon." And everyone gets ready to jam. A few eager beavers head to the front lines of the dance floor. Daar is wal to wall mirrors so you can check youself getting down. And so we ever!
One time in Bobo, Burkina Faso, the DJ played a Thomas Chauke in my honour. I arrived at the club around 8pm and stayed glued to my seat until the DJ started with the reagge set three hours later. Reggae turned to DRC, Cote d Ivoire, Afro beat and Burkina music and more reggae and more African jams.
There was no getting me off the dance floor. Someone said where are you from? I said Mzansi Africa, they said wait I see if the DJ does not have your music.
He had the king of Tsonga music. We gyrated, shook it, got down and almost broke legs in what remains, one of the best party nights of my life.
The ending at 4am was just as lovely...
Light rain, back of a scooter, riding away from the centre into the hood, hanging with the gang.
Happy holidays
(to repeat the words of a gaint sign adorning the wall of someone's home, Xmas lights around teh wall and the sign. Nope they do not do understated around here)
The song reminded me of my first of many nights at Vieradrome Kafe (a night club). My buddy Kristal plays pool there. They know her, they like her, she even brings hair from Ghana for one of the two pretty hosts in the dimly lit pool room that has red walls and a giant mirror on one side; so you check yourself working your game. And do they ever check themselves out! Ivorian men are obsessed with how they look.
Anyway, I get introduced to the manager/DJ and upon hearing I am South African, heads to the DJ booth to annouce "Vulindlela will be coming up soon." And everyone gets ready to jam. A few eager beavers head to the front lines of the dance floor. Daar is wal to wall mirrors so you can check youself getting down. And so we ever!
One time in Bobo, Burkina Faso, the DJ played a Thomas Chauke in my honour. I arrived at the club around 8pm and stayed glued to my seat until the DJ started with the reagge set three hours later. Reggae turned to DRC, Cote d Ivoire, Afro beat and Burkina music and more reggae and more African jams.
There was no getting me off the dance floor. Someone said where are you from? I said Mzansi Africa, they said wait I see if the DJ does not have your music.
He had the king of Tsonga music. We gyrated, shook it, got down and almost broke legs in what remains, one of the best party nights of my life.
The ending at 4am was just as lovely...
Light rain, back of a scooter, riding away from the centre into the hood, hanging with the gang.
Happy holidays
(to repeat the words of a gaint sign adorning the wall of someone's home, Xmas lights around teh wall and the sign. Nope they do not do understated around here)
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Drugs
Are rather too easy to get. I have been offered coke in Accra, Ghana, at Kokrobitey the fishing village and Danquar Circle, Osu , by people who drop in the whole, Oh I can hook you up with drugs if you want them, line in between regualr chit chat.
Fancy escaping the madness to deal with more madness around me.
Last night was a classic offer. Was hanging out with a friend I really suspect of being a dealer. He calls someone, gives them my number and says whatever you need to buy, call him. I told him to be good to you.
I said no drugs thanks.
He said there is no way I am not on something and whatever it is, this here is your man for it.
He is now an ex friend.
I dislike people who offer me things they have never seen me take.
Trying to mess up a great life.
And besides, I have an old friend who says drugs are not what they used, "they are getting pumped on the equivalent of omo," I believe he said a few years ago.
Fancy escaping the madness to deal with more madness around me.
Last night was a classic offer. Was hanging out with a friend I really suspect of being a dealer. He calls someone, gives them my number and says whatever you need to buy, call him. I told him to be good to you.
I said no drugs thanks.
He said there is no way I am not on something and whatever it is, this here is your man for it.
He is now an ex friend.
I dislike people who offer me things they have never seen me take.
Trying to mess up a great life.
And besides, I have an old friend who says drugs are not what they used, "they are getting pumped on the equivalent of omo," I believe he said a few years ago.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
commande pas si grande entrée, a not so grand entrance
I arrived in Senegal at 3.30 am not speaking a french, not knowing a soul, no hotel room-agent forgot to book!-and a very thin budget. I faked being a guest at a five star hotel, could not hide my relief when they said fully booked. Got ready to cry about the manager making a plan for me (it was his hometown), got taken to another hotel. Room available. At that price FORGET it. More calls, room found settled for a few hours.
Day break, have to find an even cheaper place and the manager from the second hotel is true to his word and shosw up to help you find a place, make calls in French, that kinda thing.
I find a place, but relying on people to go ut of their way does not stop with Jean and Senegal. It has been daily butter since I started this journey. Along with feeling secure, caution taken in some cases and only because I am South African like that (and if I don't have my pepper spray, which is lots because why carry a weapon and assume people to be criminal before as honest as you are? However, I am a woman traveling alone, from South Africa, so get my perspective.
I am safe, happy and wishing you an incredible physical and emotional journey soon
Starting with a holiday soon
L
Day break, have to find an even cheaper place and the manager from the second hotel is true to his word and shosw up to help you find a place, make calls in French, that kinda thing.
I find a place, but relying on people to go ut of their way does not stop with Jean and Senegal. It has been daily butter since I started this journey. Along with feeling secure, caution taken in some cases and only because I am South African like that (and if I don't have my pepper spray, which is lots because why carry a weapon and assume people to be criminal before as honest as you are? However, I am a woman traveling alone, from South Africa, so get my perspective.
I am safe, happy and wishing you an incredible physical and emotional journey soon
Starting with a holiday soon
L
If you are thinking of a detour around here
Bravery has little to do with this. This is the easiest thing I have ever done in terms of getting around and feeling safe. I have never been threatened with violence.
Just so you know and because I want to clarify the bravery issue. Being here is a leap of faith, a measure of curiosity and conviction and being so bored with your routine you will give up the comfort of that routine for a prolonged new experience.
Peace
From a catch 22 cyber cafe..space and aircon. After a day packed with guys, farts and guy smells.
L
Just so you know and because I want to clarify the bravery issue. Being here is a leap of faith, a measure of curiosity and conviction and being so bored with your routine you will give up the comfort of that routine for a prolonged new experience.
Peace
From a catch 22 cyber cafe..space and aircon. After a day packed with guys, farts and guy smells.
L
House keeping.
Before you ask and to avoid misunderstandings.
I am not in Africa. I am in West Africa and I am writing this a restaurant called Portsmouth in Le Riviera 2, Abidjan, Ivory Coast. Africa is too vast to call traveling around one of four regions that make up the continent being in Africa. That statement also distances South Africa from Africa. Of course I have issues with any discourse that puts barriers between us, see the 'about me box' on your left.
However, blogs need names that will roll off the tongue when spoken of . A name also needs to be easily recalled after first being heard of over cocktails, tea, in passing etc. Hence Boogyinafrica. My only consolation is that the law of speaking into teh future allows me such a grand claim. I want to see as much of Africa as possible, Ishallah, rebels, generally corrupt goverments and money willing.
Another thing, I welcome suggestions and ideas. However, I do DO NOT AT ALL appreciate people who think I should be doing this trip they way the would. If you are one those, who find my account boring, tame and not as xxx rated as you would like, book your own journey around here. Otherwise, feel free to ask me questions, drop suggestions and even rumours about what you hear about this side of Africa.
I want to broaden the experience, so if you you know something you would like to share, if you have a West African dream (maybe you want to club hop in Lagos, sip mint tea on the banks of the Niger) holler about a doable west African experience and I will see about letting you live it through me. At no cost to you. Because I am already here and so many have used envy, living through you etc to express how pro thsi expeirence they are. Also, if you have a FAMILY FRIENDLY; ask, whatever positive spin, story, idea you have, travel related tips you have, please. Share.
Hugs
L
I am not in Africa. I am in West Africa and I am writing this a restaurant called Portsmouth in Le Riviera 2, Abidjan, Ivory Coast. Africa is too vast to call traveling around one of four regions that make up the continent being in Africa. That statement also distances South Africa from Africa. Of course I have issues with any discourse that puts barriers between us, see the 'about me box' on your left.
However, blogs need names that will roll off the tongue when spoken of . A name also needs to be easily recalled after first being heard of over cocktails, tea, in passing etc. Hence Boogyinafrica. My only consolation is that the law of speaking into teh future allows me such a grand claim. I want to see as much of Africa as possible, Ishallah, rebels, generally corrupt goverments and money willing.
Another thing, I welcome suggestions and ideas. However, I do DO NOT AT ALL appreciate people who think I should be doing this trip they way the would. If you are one those, who find my account boring, tame and not as xxx rated as you would like, book your own journey around here. Otherwise, feel free to ask me questions, drop suggestions and even rumours about what you hear about this side of Africa.
I want to broaden the experience, so if you you know something you would like to share, if you have a West African dream (maybe you want to club hop in Lagos, sip mint tea on the banks of the Niger) holler about a doable west African experience and I will see about letting you live it through me. At no cost to you. Because I am already here and so many have used envy, living through you etc to express how pro thsi expeirence they are. Also, if you have a FAMILY FRIENDLY; ask, whatever positive spin, story, idea you have, travel related tips you have, please. Share.
Hugs
L
Long time coming
The blog that is. And just as well because a lot has been happening since I left home on June 23. Some of it even made me book a ticket back home six weeks into the experience.
I will share as I go. For now, I am just giving you the quick down low. I have so far been to Senegal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana and and typing this from a cyber cafe in Le Riviera, Abidjan Cote d Ivoire.
I hope you have been keeping up with me via City Press's backpage in my column Boogy's Space. If not, hang around here, there will be more content in the next few days and then daily news updates.
I am off to get the laptop and write posts there before posting them here.
Love and peace from a cloudy but hot as ever Le Riviera
Lerato (but you can call me Boogy)
I will share as I go. For now, I am just giving you the quick down low. I have so far been to Senegal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana and and typing this from a cyber cafe in Le Riviera, Abidjan Cote d Ivoire.
I hope you have been keeping up with me via City Press's backpage in my column Boogy's Space. If not, hang around here, there will be more content in the next few days and then daily news updates.
I am off to get the laptop and write posts there before posting them here.
Love and peace from a cloudy but hot as ever Le Riviera
Lerato (but you can call me Boogy)
Bienvenue, welcome
To my Africa. A continent that many of us are past hating, yet still know very little about because most of what we see, hear and read remains traditional-if it bleeds, it leads-news material.
Boogy in Africa is about heart, soul and emotion. It is about my travels around West Africa, a trip I consider a starter in getting to know Africa like the back of my hand. Very soon.
If you believe that Saturn returning story, like I do, then pay attention. If you don't, read and think before you diss.
I think many things and influences, including socialization and boredom, led to me here. A spiritual version of that line is that feel like this moment and my future around Africa is destiny. I am here by my will and by God's design. A well educated version runs along the lines of the typical pan african story about pride and putting one's LSM something money to where her mouth was. The event that pushed me here was my grandmother's death two years ago. She had been critically sick a while and in and out of hospitals for the past few years. We knew she was not going to live as long as her mom and grandmother, they passed on at 86 and 100 plus.
Yet her death was more painful than I thought it would. It just ripped me to pieces. Pieces must be picked up and broken things mended. I had to think about my life, not why hers did not last long enough, and decided that I really need to start living a life that is a manifestation than the pursuit of dreams. One of my dreams being seeing as much of earth as possible, starting with Africa.
The pain of her death pushed me to the decision to travel, instead of once a year two week vacations as planned.
Last year being the first year of her death, I decided I am going to do it and if I needed one emtional reason, I claimed her death and the need to celebrate her life of limited travels as the main reason I had to travel.
Besides, when I get ideas that totally excite me I just can't let go of that idea. And I consider Africa now the best idea of my life (So far.Because if something as simple as this is the best of my life...then gosh, what about the many decades I still have left?)
Boogy in Africa is about heart, soul and emotion. It is about my travels around West Africa, a trip I consider a starter in getting to know Africa like the back of my hand. Very soon.
If you believe that Saturn returning story, like I do, then pay attention. If you don't, read and think before you diss.
I think many things and influences, including socialization and boredom, led to me here. A spiritual version of that line is that feel like this moment and my future around Africa is destiny. I am here by my will and by God's design. A well educated version runs along the lines of the typical pan african story about pride and putting one's LSM something money to where her mouth was. The event that pushed me here was my grandmother's death two years ago. She had been critically sick a while and in and out of hospitals for the past few years. We knew she was not going to live as long as her mom and grandmother, they passed on at 86 and 100 plus.
Yet her death was more painful than I thought it would. It just ripped me to pieces. Pieces must be picked up and broken things mended. I had to think about my life, not why hers did not last long enough, and decided that I really need to start living a life that is a manifestation than the pursuit of dreams. One of my dreams being seeing as much of earth as possible, starting with Africa.
The pain of her death pushed me to the decision to travel, instead of once a year two week vacations as planned.
Last year being the first year of her death, I decided I am going to do it and if I needed one emtional reason, I claimed her death and the need to celebrate her life of limited travels as the main reason I had to travel.
Besides, when I get ideas that totally excite me I just can't let go of that idea. And I consider Africa now the best idea of my life (So far.Because if something as simple as this is the best of my life...then gosh, what about the many decades I still have left?)
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